The Cowfish at North Hills

The Cowfish sits in the CAPTRUST Tower at North Hills, on Six Forks Road. The kitchen does two things at once, burgers and sushi, and sometimes both of them turn up together on the same plate.

That combination is the whole identity of the place, and it works better than it sounds on paper. The dining room is large and busy, and it copes well with a group whose tastes do not agree, since there is always something here for the person who came for neither of them.

What to know

• Reservations can be made ahead for the Raleigh dining room.
• Online ordering covers both pickup and delivery.
• There is a second Cowfish in Charlotte.
• A mailing list carries news about what is happening at the Raleigh restaurant.